Enta Men Feen?

by Karim

(Crossposted at Outsider On The Inside, I wrote this after vacationing in Egypt’s Northern coastal city of Alexandria)

“Enta men feen?”

Walking down Alexandria’s corniche in a swimsuit and flip-flops at 11:30 at night will attract some stares. Sport a haircut like Hendrix (Jimmi), walk alongside your Egyptian/American friend speaking English loudly, and people start to ask where your from.

No problem, though. Alexandria is the type of city you go to be approached and asked questions. A population this warm, with a clear strip of Mediterranean sea to match, and one quickly realizes that this city was made for tourism.

It is no wonder then that this coastal city served historically as one of the earliest points of commerce and culture in the region, attracting merchants from the Indian subcontinent to Ancient Europe. While the city may not resemble the Alexandria which was conquered by Alexander and later developed by Cleomenes into the commercial centre it is historically revered for, the charm that surely attracted its’ Macedonian conquest still exists in the most vibrant of forms.

The perfect start to the city and its beautiful coast is towards its Eastern side, which houses one of the remnants of Modern Egypt’s former monarchical history. The district of Montazah is distinguished by the old royal palace which once housed King Farouk, and was seized by Gamal Abd El Nasser along with most royal holdings during the 1952 revolution. The palace itself is surrounded by flush green gardens, with small roads lined with palm trees navigating paths to the different sections of Alex’s beach that it occupies. It goes without saying that the Mediterranean is the best sea; its water is so warm and forgiving, one can spend hours on end floating in its bays. Several cabins line the coast, making for a popular vacation destination and packed beaches during the summer. Any strip of Alexandria’s beaches is a good strip of Alexandria’s beaches.

Swimming makes even the strictest of dietitians hunger for a big meal, and what a city Alexandria is to be hungry in. For my part, in less than a week’s stay I managed to sink my teeth into the softest of fish, the most flavourful of grilled meats, and the kind of fresh bread that serves the food as an edible boat whose final destination is my mouth. To me, true culinary satisfaction can only be experienced in this form.

A visit to the beach quickly turns day into night, and the Mediterranean’s generous breeze makes sitting at a cafe on the corniche with a shisha pipe an activity intended to relax the soul. I find it difficult to verbalize this experience; what one witnesses while sitting at one of these outdoor tables, which depending on how crowded the cafe is getting may actually be located among a fleet of moving cars on the street itself, must be what guide-books appropriately phrase as ”watching the world go by”. The concept of window-shopping is revolutionized here, with salesmen walking by offering anything from a selection of watches to portable cellphone chargers to dressy socks, all without the customer moving out of their state of ultimate requiescence. If a transaction is desired, it takes place with such ease that one needn’t let go of their cold cup of thick, freshly squeezed mango juice which so accordingly compliments Alexandria’s beach climate.

Of course, a visit to Alexandria these days is not complete without taking a tour of the newly inaugurated Bibliotecha Alexandria, in part a commemoration of the Library of Alexandria which was destroyed over several centuries of conquest. It’s organization alone distinguishes itself from Egypt’s other landmarks and museums, save for its extraordinary design. The library is well staffed, visually appealing, and has a sizable collection which will undoubtedly continue to grow and match other national libraries of the world. Equipped with several museums and exhibitions in art, cinema, ancient artifacts and literary history, the a few hours in the Library makes for a unique cultural experience which will leave its tourists impressed and its nationals proud.

Outside of the library, I get into a cab. The driver glances over at my colorful lace bracelet, shiny aviators and big backpack. The inevitable question arrives: “Enta men feen?”

My answer rolls sweetly off the tongue. “Ana Masri”